Valencia's on FALLA

The past week has definitely been an educational learning experience. I've interviewed many people this week, and I've learned so much about the city of Valencia and their cultural traditions and from that I feel as if I've grown closer to the city and feel a better sense of belonging.
So since I'm a lifelong learner and a teacher, I will now share with you what I've learned about Valencia and the fiesta of las Fallas.

So as I shared before, las Fallas falls on March 19th. It represents numerous things:
1)The welcoming of Spring!
2)the dia de San Josep (Saint Joseph)
3) FATHER'S DAY (since Joseph was jesus' father)

Joseph was a carpenter and to honor him, other carpenters would burn their old furniture that didn't sell or that they just didn't have much luck with. Soon it evolved that people began to join in and to build monuments and burn them. The burning signifies getting rid of the bad and forgetting about it (like a burn box when you break up with a boyfriend)

Now it evolved to build things like the following:

But before you see, it is important to know that most fallas are what they call "criticas"... they are usually criticizing something. The explanations and criticisms are usually in the Valencian language, so it is helpful to have someone explain them to you.
But not all fallas are ctiticas. The ones that are not, are not burned (because they represent nothing bad- if they represent good, why burn them?)
There are also infantil fallas. They are mini fallas that represent the infant class (children under the age of 12 or so) These usually have themes of disney or something fun and happy.

Theme: Made in Spain. Sangria, flamenco, bull fights, the MOP, horchata, fallas, long weekends and much more

1st place falla. Theme: Battle of Man vs. Nature

Theme: War is Over

More war is over: Franco and Hitler on their way to hell

John Lennon, of course

Criticizing American patents in Europe.

Theme of the the impact technology has on humanity

The city's falla, one of the biggest and for all to watch burn

Now because many of them are criticizing something, there is a good chance they may appear to be "offensive"... and could include things like lots of big breasted woman (with their breasts showing), men with erections, prostitutes, etc. But these are things the burn to say "hey, put an end to this!"

There is also a competition. Each falla is placed into a division which depends on their budget. Then they are judged based on theme, message, and of course appearance and size. The award is pride and bragging rights, and a banner to march around town.


Next lesson: Falleras

So anyone who belongs to a Falla and pays dues, can be a fallera. Many young children are involved in this, especially girls because they get to dress up in princess dresses. These dresses can cost more than your fancy wedding dress. Hundreds and thousands of euros. Just for a young girl to grow out of it and need a new one next year! She also gets beautiful jewelry, hair pieces, and matching shoes you cant see because the dress covers them!
The boys wear nice vests, cumber buns, and old fashioned pants socks and shoes.
Out of all the girls, a fallera mayor is chosen (one in the older group, and one infantil) and from the boys, a "president" from each class as well. (not sure how this is done, perhaps by luck, perhaps who pays the most?)

Laura's hair. It is not real but they still go to the hairdressers every day to get this put in

lots of Falleras, young and old

Laura and Mauro, lookin guapo

Blanca (4) and Laura (8)... my favorite falleras!

During the week of Fallas (beginning usually around the 15th), there are activities galore!
There are numerous processions. (They also occur at 8am, with a band... just to say good morning, Valencia!)
But each falla has a procession around the few blocks of their club house. They all get dressed up, collect their banners, and march around with a hired band playing traditional Valencian music.

Borja holding the names of all past Fallera Mayores

Banners of awards-2nd place this year!

Carlos, que fuerte!

Afterwords, many fallas dine together outside on delicious Valencian food such as arroz al horno or paella, which I was lucky enough to be invited to!

A typical activity is to have a cook off.... paella cook off! Each falla splits into teams and each team buys all the necessary supplies, including appetizers, and they all cook paella over a campfire! (the preferred way to eat paella, arguably the best way!)

Enough to feed maybe 8-10 people

Building the fire- Boy scout style

This fallas competition consisted of about 15-20 competitors

Add caldo

finished product

Me and the fathers I tutor for! Francisco on the right made us a 2nd place paella!

Me and the Moms. We didn't cook, just enjoyed mojitos

So our paella (number 21) won 2nd prize! The paella was finally done at 1130 and the winners announced at around midnight. When our paella was announced 2nd prize, Francisco pulled me up on stage with him to collect the prize (a serving plate, an apron, and of course bragging rights)

La Ofrenda: In plaza de la Virgen, a wooden structure is built that looks something like this:
It is the Virgin Mary. And throughout the week, falleros, falleras, make a pilgrimage to the plaza to leave an offering to the Virgin- a bouquet of flowers.
This started hundreds of years ago, when one woman dressed as a fallera made the pilgramage alone carrying her bouquet. Another fallera saw and asked what she was doing. The fallera liked the idea and joined her. Now, all in a falla make the pilgramage together to offer their flowers to the virgin. This becomes very emotional for some, and some cry when leaving their offering.
Every year now, the virgin will look different. There is a master plan which i assume looks something like "paint by numbers" The falleras bring the flowers accompanied by a band, and the flowers are passed up and placed into the correct position.

before

during.. kids are pushed in strollers and fed snacks during the pilgrimage

finished prduct

the back, gorgeous

Continuamos...
Valencia LOVES fuegos artificiales. And I mean LOVES. I was told by the granmother of the girls i tutor, that "despues de los chinos, Valencia tiene los mejores fuegos artificiales del mundo!" (after the Chinese, valencia has the best fireworks in the world!)
When I heard this, i thought, ha, they aint got nuttin on Grucci. But... they do. They were the best fireworks I've ever seen in my life!
Regular firework shoes were given beginning March 15th, and continued nightly until the 19th. The shows lasted about 20 minutes. The night of the 18th was known as "la nit de foc" or night of fire! Crowds of thousands of people gathered along the old riverbed to watch the spectacular show

Other things Valencia:
Pañuelos (the things we're all wearing around our neck) and Blusons are typical to wear during Fallas.
Buñuelos are made and eaten. There are thousands of stands around Valencia to buy these fried doughy goodness along with ones with baked pumpkin, churros, and hot chocolate.
But the best ones are homemade. We were invited to our friend Ruben's house to make them with his abuelita (grandma) and his family.
The process was difficult and takes lots of practice! The secret is to have one hand in this water mixture, then with the other squeeze out the dough, through the top of your fist, collect the dough with all five wet fingers, then with your middle finger and thumb, make a little hole then drop it into the hot oil!

Making these are in art that takes skill!

Enjoying our bunelos (although many of ours looked like chicken wings!)

Now in case you missed the fact that Valencia loves fire and fireworks, let me reiterate that VALENCIA LOVES FIREWORKS AND NOISE!!!
It is completely normal to see 3 or 4 year olds walking around with a burning rope, and lighting off little fireworks called "petardos". Some are bigger and louder than others, some travel and most scare the crap out of people.
Now petardos are only legal to light between March 1st and March 19th. Then thats it. So people buy them in bulk, and light them off morning, noon, and night. You can't catch a break and you have to watch where you step and try to sit indoors at cafe's to avoid getting your ear drum blown out or  almost getting hit with these fireworks.
People also like to try and get fancy. They light them inside of oranges, dog crap, off of buildings, out of their own hands, in puddles, off bridges, you name it- its done.
This got annoying, fast. But if you can't beat em... join em! Here is a video of Addie and I lighting Petardos- and it takes some getting used to! But if 3 year olds can do it... so can 22 year olds!

Now to the most anticipated event during this fiesta! As I said, fallas is kind of about out with the old, in with the new. And Valencia likes fires and noise (check out my old fallas post pertaining to the mascletá)
So the big daddy of the celebration is March 19th, la CREMA. The night they burn a years worth of hard work!
I chose to go back to "my falla" (war is over) to watch that one burn. The burnings of infantil occur at 10 pm, then the big fallas at midnight. They line the falla with those really loud petardos, set off fireworks, and then before you know it, the Valencia is on FALLA and up in flames. Stand back! it gets hot! The fallas are ablaze, the crowd is cheering, and bombers (firefighters) are standing by with hoses controlling the fire to prevent it from spreading to the buildings.
But before it burns to the ground, the fallera mayores and presidents get to choose a piece of the falla to keep as a prize for their achievement and to remember their falla.
Here is the crema I watched: (ps i may have shed a tear before it burnt to the ground- I felt so connected to "my first falla"!!!

Then at 1am, everyone flocks to the mail plaza of ayutanamiento. Here there are more fireworks (are you surprised) and more petardos, and another mini mascletá. Then, the main falla in the center goes up in flames and the crowd loves it. It is basically a sensory overload with lots of noise, lots of lights, lots of fire, and lots of heat.

Now although I really enjoyed las Fallas, it sure took some getting used to with the noise and the influx of tourists! But in the end, I sure am glad its over so that I can walk the streets normally without crowds and not have to listen to petardos 24 hours a day!

but on the bright side:

Bienvenidos a Valencia la primavera!!!!!